Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
